2007 Saturn Vue won't start -OR- How to Save $130

Apparently an uncommon problem with the 2.2 l FWD version of the 2002-2007 Saturn Vue/Chevy Equinox/Pontiac Torrent/GMC Terrain/Cadillac SRX (boy, the General Motors rebranding team sure earned their money) is that these three screws, circled in red, can come loose (click to enlarge):

These loose screws allow the fuse box to wiggle free and the fuses themselves to lose contact with their respective terminals.

To access these screws, of course, you have to pull off the plastic cover, which can be seen in the above photo sitting on the battery cover, right next to the windshield washer fluid. It has one plastic clip on either side that comes free with a little squeeze.

For our car, this caused a check engine light (CEL) to come on, as well as a radiator check light.
Here's a link to the 2007 Saturn Vue Owner's Manual, where you can read all about the blurred, obscure hieroglyphics that your car lights up on the dashboard whenever there's a problem.

Additionally, the two secondary cigar lighter sockets stopped working (one inside the center console, one on the back of the center console), and the on-board diagnostic (OBD) system was not functioning!

I took the car to an oil-change place down the street that had helped me with OBD II codes before with this car, and the OBD II system was not functioning. The car gave no codes, because well, it wasn't even able to power the OBD diagnostic computer that they plugged in to the car.

The illumination of the two dashboard lights, failure of the cigar lighters, and failure of the OBD II system were followed shortly (a week or two) by the engine failing to start. The engine would turn over, and the battery was fully charged, and the car had gas, but it wouldn't start.

After a $130 diagnostic at the dealership (the car's still under the 5-year, 100,000 mile warranty), they tightened the screws and sent us on our way.

Hopefully when someone else has this problem they stumble across this information and save $130+ by just tightening some screws!

How to reconnect your iPhone 3GS's camera after replacing the battery

I decided to replace the battery in my phone recently, because, well, it has decent hardware and is capable of all the things I want it to do (GPS, music, email, etc).

My phone in particular had gotten to the point that it would lose a full battery charge in under four hours, without me even using the phone!

Rather than paying for an entirely new phone (EDIT: OR PAYING APPLE $87 TO REPLACE IT FOR ME), which is what Apple and/or Google would have no doubt wanted me to do, I chose to pay the $7 on Amazon for a replacement battery.

I received the battery, followed directions via a downloaded pdf, and as I was putting the phone back together, noticed a MAJOR FLAW in the directions.

They don't tell you how to reconnect the camera ribbon cable to the main board.

It's nearly impossible to do this without adding at least five more steps, which is perhaps why they just skipped this in the directions entirely.

And if you're like me, you put your phone back together only to find that the camera no longer works. Whatsoever.

If you were following those directions, by the way, the "Reconnecting the Camera" step should be right in between step #s 14 and 15. How convenient of them to omit such a vital step.

After a little fidgeting and poking around with a screwdriver, I discovered the remedy:

BEFORE putting the main board back into the phone, remove this screw (marked with a "1" in the picture), along with the small metal brace that the screw is holding down (click to enlarge):

The camera itself is the boxy piece of plastic and metal that is being held in place by the screw and its bracket, highlighted in the previous picture in a red square. The camera is about 1 cm x 1 cm x .6 cm, and is easily lifted straight back out of its brace with the prying tool that comes with the battery.

Which you should do now, of course, if you're trying to reconnect the camera.

With the screw and brace removed, main board and camera in place (click to enlarge):

Now that you've got the main board and camera both loose, you can quite easily connect the two via the camera's ribbon cable and surface-mounted connection interface.

The easiest way I've found to put everything back into place is to slide the main board up and under this tiiiiiny little plastic brace,  meant to hold the main board in place and marked in a red rectangle in the picture below (click to enlarge):

Once you've got the main board situated correctly, you can (carefully) slide the camera straight down back into its brace and screw it down with the metal bracket.

From there, screw all the screws, connect all the connectors, follow the directions, and enjoy your brand new battery in your old iPhone 3GS, complete with working camera!

First Post!

Taking another go at blogging! My last one was actually pretty successful and enjoyable to produce, but I just fell out of the habit of updating it. It felt more like a redundant form of facebook than anything productive, so this time around I'm going to be doing my best to dedicate it to documenting the various projects I have or currently am working on.

A lot of the "projects" I've worked on, especially related to home improvement and boat repair, required varying degrees of improvisation and trial-and-error due to a serious lack of documentation by people who had done similar things before me. I aim to fill gaps in information where I see them.

With that in mind, I plan on covering a wide range of topics including, but not limited to: electrical hardware design, software design, car and boat repair, home theater "design" and troubleshooting, as well as critiques and reviews of popular hardware and software that I use, including how I would do things differently were I the one to design it.

I'll leave you today with a completely unrelated picture of a frog that I took this morning during a short walk.
Click to enlarge, and enjoy!